Benoît Carcenat is the “Chef of the Year”
A M.O.F. (Meilleurs Ouvrier de France) can be recognised at first glance by his chef’s coat, the collar of which bears the colours of the tricolour. Benoît Carcenat is one of them. But it was in Switzerland that he decided to make his career. First, at the “Hôtel de Ville” in Crissier, encouraged and supported by Benoît Violier, which explains his nickname of “Benoît II”. Marked by this passenger, Carcenat did not seek to turn the Valrose in Rougemont into a Crissier. He developed his own unforgettable signature. The editor-in-chief of GaultMillau Switzerland, Urs Heller, explains: “I sent three different testers there: they all share the same enthusiasm.”
We are not worried about the next generation. A surprisingly large number of young cooks aspire to the top, neither Covid nor the lack of qualified personnel stop them. Among them, Marco Campanella (“Eden Roc”, Ascona, 18 points) and Dominik Hartmann (“Magdalena”, Rickenbach SZ, 17 points) are among our “Promises of the Year” in the German-speaking part of Switzerland. Also in German-speaking Switzerland, the astonishing Silvia Manser at the “Truube” in Gais AR (wins her 17th point) and in French-speaking Switzerland, Philippe Deslarzes (“Njørden”, Aubonne VD, 16 points) who dazzles his public with his gastronomy inspired by the Great North.
The GaultMillau 2023 contains 89 discoveries, including 37 in French-speaking Switzerland! 870 restaurants are now listed in the guide, a figure never before achieved: clearly the GaultMillau scene is stronger than expected. Of these 89 newcomers, two entered with 15 points each and the title of “Discovery of the Year”: Michael Schuler has stepped out of the shadow of his apprenticeship master Stefan Heilemann and is now cooking at the “Alex Lake Zürich” in Thalwil. Gilles Varone has returned to his native village of Savièse (VS) after years of learning and travelling. He took over the former village grocery shop, which was converted into a restaurant, and now successfully runs the restaurant that bears his name. It is also worth noting that a quarter of our discoveries from last year gain a point in the new guide.
Reto Brändli from Schwyz is one of the best chefs in Switzerland. He was fired by the owner of the “Kempinski St. Moritz” for obscure reasons, but takes off to Berlin, to the best address: Adlon Kempinski, near the Brandenburg Gate; Brändli is our “Star Abroad”. The “Sommelier of the Year” is Peter Zimmermann. He knows Zermatt, the “Zermatterhof” and the best winegrowers in the Valais and you can rely on his recommendations. The same goes for two icons: Claudio Recchia and Gabriele Speziale, who have been the “soul” of the “Villa Principe Leopoldo” above Lugano for 33 years (!). GaultMillau awarded this duo the title of “Host of the Year”. Othmane Khoris (“The Alpina”, Gstaad) is our “Pastry Chef of the Year”. GaultMillau has already awarded two distinctions: The “Beau-Rivage Palace” in Lausanne is the “Hotel of the Year”, the trendy “Bar Lupo” in Zurich the “POP of the Year”.
150 SWISS WINE PRODUCERS AND 90 GOURMET HOTELS
The GaultMillau Switzerland Guide has a new look. The cover is gold-plated and the layout has been renewed. 93 of the 870 cooks listed will rejoice and rise in rank. 45 lose a point; some have to rethink their concept. Also listed are the 150 best Swiss winegrowers and 90 hotels that focus particularly on gastronomy.
